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Wednesday, June 01, 2005

On Point Quilts!


Putting it "On-Point"!!

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Figuring the math for diagonal quilt settings!



Here is the math formula for finding out the sizes of triangles you will need for a quilt that is
set "block to block" WITHOUT sashings:

Corner Triangles
Take the finished block size and divide by 1.414
Note: Round up to the nearest dimension on the ruler.
Add 7/8" to that number

Cut two squares the size determined above.
Cut each square in half diagonally for the four corner triangles.

Example #1:
Finished block size = 12"
12 / 1.414 = 8.486 (Round to 8.5 = 8-1/2")
8-1/2" + 7/8" = 9-3/8" squares to cut for Corner Triangles

Example#2:

Finished block size = 6"
6 / 1.414 = 4.243 (Round to 4.25 = 4-1/4")
4-1/4" + 7/8" = 5-1/8" squares to cut for Corner Triangles

Side Triangles
Take the finished block size and multiply by 1.414
Note: Round up to the nearest dimension on the ruler.
Add 1-1/4" to that number for the correct size to cut squares for side triangles.

Cut this square in half diagonally twice with an X to produce four Side Triangles.
Cut one square for every four side trinagles needed for the quilt setting.

Example#3:
Finished block size = 12"
12 x 1.414 = 16.96 (Round to 17 = 17")
17" + 1-1/4" = 18-1/4" squares to cut for Side Triangles
Example#4:
Finished block size = 6"
6 x 1.414 = 8.48 (Round to 8.5 = 8-1/2")
8-1/2" + 1-1/4" = 9-3/4" squares to cut for Side Triangles
Common Sizes for Setting Triangles
Finished Block Size
Side Triangles
Corner Triangles
3"
5-1/2"
3"
3-1/2" 6-1/4" 3-5/8"
4"
7"
3-3/4"
4-1/2" 7- 5/8" 4-1/8"
5"
8-3/8"
4-1/2"
5-1/2" 9-1/8" 4-7/8"
6"
9-3/4"
5-1/8"
6-1/2" 10-1/2" 5-1/2"
7"
11-1/4"
5-5/8"
7-1/2" 12" 6-1/4"
8"
12-5/8"
6-5/8"
8-1/2" 13-3/8" 6-7/8"
9"
14"
7-1/4"
9-1/2" 14-3/4" 7-5/8"
10"
15-1/2"
8"
10-1/2" 16-1/8" 8-3/8"
11" 16-7/8" 8-3/4"
11-1/2" 17-1/2" 9-1/8"
12"
18-1/4"
9-3/8"
12-1/2" 19" 9-3/4"
13" 19-3/4" 10-1/8"
13-1/2" 20-3/8" 10-1/2"
14"
21-1/8"
10-7/8"
14-1/2" 21-3/4" 11-1/8"
15"
22-1/2"
11-3/8"
15-1/2" 23-1/4" 11-7/8"
16"
16-1/2"
17"
23-7/8"
24 1/2"
25 3/4"
12-1/4"
12-1/2"
13"
*Note* I like to round my numbers up a bit when cutting the squares for side triangles. For instance, if your closest fraction is 1/8", I personally would round it up to the 1/4". If the closest fraction is 3/8", then I would round it up to the 1/2". The blocks will float inside the top a bit when pieced with bigger triangles, but I trim it down after the top is together.

Lay out the triangles and corners with your blocks. Begin sewing the quilt into rows starting at one corner. Your first row will have one corner block, two large setting "wing" triangles, and the corner triangle. Your second row will have three blocks, two wing triangles...etc. Each row will get larger as you get to the center of the quilt. I like two assemble the quilt rows together as I go until there are two halves of the top.....and then sew the two halves together in one long seam.


After the top is together, use your ruler and rotory cutter to trim the edge of the quilt 1/4" away from the corners of the blocks at the quilt top edge. This gets rid of all the dog ears from sewing the rows together too.



What if my quilt has SASHINGS?! What sizes do I cut?


The side and corner triangles need to be cut using the same calculations above, only we now add the sashing measurement to the block measurement as one unit. The sashing is considered to be part of the block when calculating the side and corner triangles. Say you have an 8" finished block size, but you are setting the quilt with 2" finished sashing. You would figure that you need setting triangles for a 10" finished block size (8" block + 2" sashing) to set your quilt.


7 comments:

  1. Thanks for this handy info, Bonnie!! I'm finishing up a UFO with an on-point setting and your directions here! Thanks!!!
    Melissa

    ReplyDelete
  2. You did my math for me. Thank you so much! Every time I make a quilt without using a pattern I swear I'll never do it again. Then... I do it again. You helped me look good. And I gotta say, you helped my quilt look good.

    --Sally

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks for doing my math for me. Every time I make a quilt without a pattern I swear I'll never do it again. Then... I do it again. So thank you, Bonnie, for making me look good. Or more importantly, for making my quilt look good.

    --Sally

    ReplyDelete
  4. THANK YOU for providing this reference chart. I decided at the last minute to set some blocks on point and had no idea how to begin calculating the math. Then I remembered you mentioned this very thing in a recent post. Your generosity is [seam]ingly limitless. - Gena in Dallas

    ReplyDelete
  5. Thanks again Bonnie for the chart. I have an on point top I've put together without using a pattern. I'm to the point of needing triangles and remembered your chart. One quick glance and I'm ready to move forward with putting the rows together. Thank you again. Beth

    ReplyDelete
  6. Just pondering how to figure on point triangles - and voila - you have this amazing formula - and THEN you also do the math FOR US by making the chart with all different finished sized blocks - Bonnie - you truly are the best! Thanks a million.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Do you by chance have a diagram (like above) on point WITH sashing? I’m using cornerstones too! Thanks

    ReplyDelete

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