Finished size 38"X49"
Block size: 4''
Click HERE for Printer-Friendly PDF.
Cutting Directions:
Assembly: 4 patches!
Repeat the above steps with 2 1/2 strips of the purple print, and the remaining 2 1/2 strips of the white on white print. Make 20 purple/white 4 patches as shown above.
Now the fun begins! You will notice that in the quilt shown above that the 4 patches alternate so there is a purple diagonal chain alternating with an orange diagonal chain. On your floor or a design wall, lay out your 4 patches and novelty print squares in the way you want them to go. Sew the blocks into rows, and then sew the rows together forming the quilt top center.
Now the fun begins! You will notice that in the quilt shown above that the 4 patches alternate so there is a purple diagonal chain alternating with an orange diagonal chain. On your floor or a design wall, lay out your 4 patches and novelty print squares in the way you want them to go. Sew the blocks into rows, and then sew the rows together forming the quilt top center.
Borders:
(These directions show a different quilt top, but the border instructions are the same!)
We are going to add the long sides of the inner border first. I like to join my narrow border strips on the diagonal the same way I do for making binding. The only exception to this is if the fabric is a stripe...I have better luck just stitching them end to end. It is less noticeable that way.
Measuring Borders:
I cut ALL my borders this way, using the border strips to measure across the center of the quilt, instead of using a measuring tape which may stretch or lay differently than the fabric I am using. My borders always turn out square and straight this way with no ripples. Cut 2 strips the length of the quilt top. Pin the border to the quilt, matching the center and top and bottom.
For the outer borders, you are going to follow the same procedure, only using the four 3.5" strips. When strips get wider than 3.5", I like to sew them together straight end to end instead of on the diagonal or bias. This is mostly due to the fact that a bias seam is going to be longer than a straight seam, and because the strip is wide, it will be even more noticeable. There is also a lot of waste when you are joining wide strips on the bias. The choice is up to you! If joining stripes, I like to join them end to end instead of on the bias. Sew the outer borders to the long sides of the quilt first, then add the final top and bottom borders.
Your top is done! Now you can finish it any way you want to....you can tie it, you can place buttons in the corners of each block and tie through the buttons, you can machine quilt through the diagonals or meander the whole quilt, or you can hand quilt, whatever you desire! Pat yourself on the back! You have just created a one of a kind I-spy-a-4-patch quilt that anyone would love! Here is another version using only ONE novelty print for a different look! (just off the quilting machine, still needing binding!)
2 comments:
I'd like to make this pattern but for a larger quilt (kingsize bed). Do I need to enlarge the blocks, or just make more of them?
Vic
kelvix@yahoo.com
I think it would be easier to just make more blocks unless you want to change all the measurements.
Post a Comment
If you are commenting as "anonymous" please leave your name at the end of your comment.
Did you know that ad space on this blog provides for all of the free patterns and free mysteries and challenges at no cost to you? Without ads, this blog would not be possible.
Thank you for understanding the many hours that go into this blog 6 days a week, 52 weeks a year. :)